recommended route
Via Ferrata Ottorino Marangoni - Monte Albano
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Via ferrata O. Marangoni - Monte AlbanoVideo: Outdooractive – 3D Videos
Created in 1976 by the CAI-SAT section of Mori, it is one of the most difficult and spectacular climbing routes in the Alps. It was completely renovated in 2014.
The only ferrata outside the Sarca/Garda valley axis but, given its proximity, is historically one of the most popular bolted routes with visitors to Garda Trentino. The first via ferrata in the modern style, created in 1976, has been renowned for years for its technical challenges and exposure.
The short, easy access route, proximity to roads, and its aspect which mean it can be climbed all year round, have made it a favourite with hundreds of thousands of ascents over the years, making the rock smooth and increasing the level of difficulty. So in 2014 SAT undertook to overhaul the route, adding many new holds and generally facilitating the users. It is nonetheless still physically challenging on certain sections. The ferrata is noted for its succession of exposed traverses with a bird’s eye view over the village of Mori.
As in the case of Pisetta and Dain Piccolo, the first metres of the ascent have been deliberately left difficult so that users are aware of the effort required and have a chance to retreat before committing to the ascent.
Author’s recommendation
This via ferrata is exposed to the south: in summer, avoid it when it's too hot or start the route early in the morning.
Track types
Safety information
Safety Tips
- Only do the via ferrata if you are reasonably fit and in excellent health.
- Do not do the via ferrata in bad weather, especially if it looks like a storm is coming.
- Do not do the via ferrata alone: if you have an accident nobody will be able to call for help.
- The risk of rock falls increases if there are others on the via ferrata or with wind or rain.
- Always check route conditions; in winter you may find snow and ice.
- Use proper safety gear (helmet, harness, ferrata kit with double self-locking carabiners and energy absorbing systems). Put on your helmet once you get near to the wall in case of rock falls.
- During progression always keep both carabiners clipped onto the safety cable and when you pass the anchor points make sure at least one carabiner is clipped on to each safety cable.
- Only one person may be on any length of cable between two anchor points.
- Wear clothing and hiking boots suited to the altitude, the season and the length of the route and ferrata gloves.
- Pay special attention on the easy parts, where there are no cables.
- Always check the condition of the bolts and cables on the wall as they can suffer damage in bad weather.
- Carefully evaluate the crowding conditions and the state of preservation of the safety gear on the via ferrata. Beware, YOU are ultimately and solely responsible for undertaking a via ferrata safely and responsibly.
Emergency telephone number 112.
The information on this chart is subject to inevitable variations, so this means that none of the indications are absolute. It is not entirely possible to avoid giving inexact or imprecise information, given how quickly environmental and weather conditions can change. For this reason, we decline any responsibility for changes which the user may encounter. In any case, the hiker is advised to check the conditions of the places, environment and weather before setting out.
Tips and hints
Facing a via ferrata requires knowledge of the right technique of progression and some training. If you want to try out this experience for the first time or check the use of the via ferrata set, we recommend that you contact one of our mountain guides: Guides – Via ferratas with the experts
For further information on routes, activities, events and accommodation at lake Garda: Garda Trentino - +39 0464 554444
Start
Destination
Turn-by-turn directions
Access:
From the centre of Mori head uphill towards the sanctuary from which a short trail takes you to the start of the via ferrata (put on your helmet before you approach the rock wall – this is an area where stones may fall dislodged by people above you on the ferrata).
Description:
The first rocky outcrop (1) is deliberately without any chains in order to discourage the unprepared. The first section climbs up through a series of chimneys (3), punctuated by short traverses (2), fitted with numerous rungs and with some strenuous stretches. A traverse to the left (4) takes you to the great ledge halfway up the wall. Traverse to the left until you are going up another chimney (5) and then with another lofty traverse you reach the log book (6). Following the sequence of rungs you can get past a sequence of slabs and vertical dihedrals (7) which lead you off the wall.
Descent:
Follow the signposted path, which follows the left edge of the wall,back down to the sanctuary.
Public transport
Public-transport-friendly
Mori is connected to the centers of Garda Trentino by the intercity bus line 332 (Riva del Garda - Rovereto - Trento).
Up-to-date information on timetables and routes.
By road
Mori is about 15 km from Riva del Garda. You can reach it via the state road 240 in the direction of Rovereto.
Find out how to reach Garda Trentino.
Parking
Free parking close to the middle school in Mori (Via Giovanni XXIII).
Coordinates
Author’s map recommendations
Garda Trentino TREKKING Map – Available in the info points of Garda Trentino (Riva del Garda, Arco, Torbole sul Garda, Ledro, Comano Terme)
Book recommendations for this region:
Recommended maps for this region:
Equipment
You need to wear the right clothing and take the proper gear when you go hiking in the mountains. Even on relatively short easy outings make sure to take all you need so you don't run into trouble if things take an unexpected turn, for example a storm blows up or you have a sudden drop in energy levels.
What should you absolutely have with you on a via ferrata tour?
- rucksack (25/30L capacity) for a day trip
- technical mountain clothing
- hiking boots with Vibram or similar sole
- via ferrata gear
- harness
- helmet
- gloves
- pickaxe and crampons (when necessary)
- a length of rope (recommended)
Questions and answers
Rating
Photos from others