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Alpine Route recommended route

Großglockner, Weg der Erstbesteiger (Normalweg)

· 2 reviews · Alpine Route · Glockner Group
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alpenvereinaktiv.com Verified partner  Explorers Choice 
  • Tief unter uns liegt der Ausgangspunkt das Glocknerhaus, malerisch der Margaritzenstausee.
    / Tief unter uns liegt der Ausgangspunkt das Glocknerhaus, malerisch der Margaritzenstausee.
    Photo: Mario Zott, alpenvereinaktiv.com
  • / Die Salmhütte - eigentlich bereits die dritte Salmhütte - der Natursteinbau wurde in den Jahren 1926 und 1927 errichtet.
    Photo: Mario Zott, alpenvereinaktiv.com
  • / Originalaufnahme vom Bau der Salmhütte aus dem Jahr 1926.
    Photo: Archiv Salmhütte, Salmhütte
  • / Historischer Blick zum Glockner. Gut zu erkennen die von den Erstbesteigern benutzte Firnrinne hinauf zur Hohenwartscharte.
    Photo: E. Richter, Alpenvereinsmuseum
  • / Abstieg zum Gletscher und anschließende Querung unterhalb des Hohenwartkopfes.
    Photo: Georg Rothwangl, alpenvereinaktiv.com
  • / Der weitere Anstieg verläuft von der Hohenwartscharte über die Adlersruhe bis zum Gipfel von Klein- und Großglockner.
    Photo: Mario Zott, alpenvereinaktiv.com
  • / Querung über Blankeis unterhalb des Hohenwartkopfes.
    Photo: Norbert Freudenthaler, norbert-freudenthaler.com
  • / Kurz vor der Adlersruhe scheint der Gipfel erstmals greifbar nahe.
    Photo: Norbert Freudenthaler, norbert-freudenthaler.com
  • / Am ausgesetzten Gipfelgrat, kurz vor dem Gipfelkreuz.
    Photo: Norbert Freudenthaler, norbert-freudenthaler.com
  • / Das Team alpenvereinaktiv.com erreicht über den Lammergrat den Großglocknergipfel.
    Photo: Mario Zott, alpenvereinaktiv.com
  • / Die höchste Geburtstagsparty von Österreich!
    Photo: Norbert Freudenthaler, norbert-freudenthaler.com
  • / Glocknerscharte im Abstieg, diesmal ohne den gefürchteten "Gegenverkehr".
    Photo: Mario Zott, alpenvereinaktiv.com
  • / Beim Abstieg über den Kleinglockner - historische Aufnahme aus "Die Erschliessung der Ostalpen", Band III.
    Photo: E. Richter, Alpenvereinsmuseum
  • / Tiefblick in die berühmte Pallavicinirinne - "do pfeifft's obi" !
    Photo: Mario Zott, alpenvereinaktiv.com
  • / Abstieg über den Kleinglockner - die Verhältnisse sind perfekt!
    Photo: Mario Zott, alpenvereinaktiv.com
  • / Am "Sattele" oberhalb des Glocknerleitls angekommen, nicht mehr weit zur Adlersruhe.
    Photo: Mario Zott, alpenvereinaktiv.com
  • / Der Adlersruhe "Gletscherexpreß" mit dem sympathischen Hüttenwirt der Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte.
    Photo: Georg Rothwangl, alpenvereinaktiv.com
m 4500 4000 3500 3000 2500 2000 1500 18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 km Haltestelle Glocknerhaus Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte Glocknerhaus Salmhütte Gletscherbahn
moderate
Distance 19.6 km
11:07 h
2,274 m
2,304 m

Author’s recommendation

Profile picture of Mario Zott , Georg Rothwangl
Author
Mario Zott , Georg Rothwangl
Update: February 19, 2016
Difficulty
II+, 40°, PD+ moderate
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Risk potential
Highest point
Großglockner, 3,798 m
Lowest point
2,000 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Cardinal direction
NESW
Belay stations
with bolts
Protection
sporadic bolts
Rope length
1 x 50 m
Number of quickdraws
4
First ascent
Graf Salm Reifferscheidt & Gefährten, 28. Juli 1800

Safety information

Tips and hints

Start

Glocknerhaus (2,048 m)
Coordinates:
DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 

Destination

Glocknerhaus

Turn-by-turn directions

Note


all notes on protected areas

Public transport

Public-transport-friendly

Getting there

Parking

Coordinates

DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Book recommendation by the author

Rother Führer "Glockner- und Granatspitzgruppe"

Author’s map recommendations

Alpenvereinskarte Nr. 40 "Glocknergruppe"

Book recommendations for this region:

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Recommended maps for this region:

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Equipment

Basic Equipment for Alpine Routes

  • Layered, moisture wicking clothing
  • Long, warm technical socks plus liners and spares
  • 35-45 liter rucksack  (with rain cover)
  • Protection against sun, rain and wind (hat, sunscreen, water- and windproof jacket and suitable legwear)
  • Lip protection (SPF 30+)
  • Water- and windproof mountaineering jacket and trousers with ankle adjustment or separate gaiters
  • Water- and windproof gloves plus thin fleece inner gloves
  • Neckwear
  • moisture wicking skull / knit cap
  • Hiking poles
  • Sunglasses
  • Ample supply of drinking water and snacks
  • First aid kit
  • Blister kit
  • Bivy / survival bag  
  • Survival blanket
  • Headlamp
  • Pocket knife
  • Whistle
  • Cell phone
  • Cash
  • Navigation equipment / map and compass
  • Emergency contact details
  • ID

Technical Equipment for Alpine Routes

  • B2 or B3 mountaineering boots
  • Climbing harness
  • Climbing helmet
  • Ice axes (basic or technical with hammer and adze as required)
  • C2-C3 crampons with anti-balling plates (as required by route and to match boots)  
  • Single rope
  • Half ropes
  • Twin ropes
  • Friend/cam 0
  • Friend/cam 0.1
  • Friend/cam offset 0.1-0.2
  • Friend/cam 0.2
  • Friend/cam offset 0.2-0.3
  • Friend/cam 0.3
  • Friend/cam offset 0.3-0.4
  • Friend/cam 0.4
  • Friend/cam offset 0.4-0.5
  • Friend/cam 0.5
  • Friend/cam offset 0.5-0.75
  • Friend/cam 1
  • Friend/cam 2
  • Friend/cam 3
  • Friend/cam 4
  • Friend/cam 5
  • Friend/cam 6
  • Friend/cam 7
  • Friend/cam 8
  • Set of nuts
  • Double set of nuts
  • Small nuts
  • Medium nuts
  • Large nuts
  • Nut tool
  • Tricam(s)
  • Ball nut(s)
  • (Active) Camming device(s) for wider cracks such as the Gipsy
  • Hexentric(s)
  • Progress capture pulley(s) such as the Petzl Traxion
  • Micro ascender(s) such as the Petzl TiBloc
  • Pitons and hammer
  • Set of ice screws
  • Short ice screws
  • Medium ice screws
  • Long ice screws
  • V-Thread tool
  • 2x Harness tool holder such as the Ice Clipper or Caritool
  • Quickdraws
  • Locking device

Camping Equipment

  • Tent (3- or 4-season)
  • Stove (including fuel and utensils)
  • Sleeping mat. Sleeping bag with suitable temperature rating.
  • Food
  • Toiletries and medication
  • Toilet paper

Things to Bring if Staying in a Mountain Hut

  • Toiletries and medication
  • Quick-drying towel  
  • Ear plugs
  • Sleeping bag liner
  • Sleepwear
  • Alpine club membership card if applicable / ID
  • Coronavirus mask and hand sanitizer
  • The 'basic' and 'technical' equipment lists are generated based on the selected activity. They are not exhaustive and only serve as suggestions for what you should consider packing.
  • For your safety, you should carefully read all instructions on how to properly use and maintain your equipment.
  • Please ensure that the equipment you bring complies with local laws and does not include restricted items.

Questions and answers

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Rating

5.0
(2)
Ralf Thiehoff
August 22, 2018 · Community
Show more
Justin Lange
July 03, 2014 · Community
Show more
When did you do this route? August 13, 2013

Photos from others


Reviews
Difficulty
II+, 40°, PD+ moderate
Distance
19.6 km
Duration
11:07 h
Ascent
2,274 m
Descent
2,304 m
Public-transport-friendly Circular route Scenic Refreshment stops available Summit route Ridge traverse

Statistics

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